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Sugar & Salt

The Pastry
Grid. 🍮

Portuguese food is simple, honest, and caloric. It is the smell of grilled sardines, the crunch of puff pastry, and wine that tastes like the Atlantic.

National Obsession

Pastel de Nata. 🥧

Invented by monks at the Jerónimos Monastery to use up leftover egg yolks (the whites were used to starch clothes). It is a custard tart with a burnt top.

Belém vs. Manteigaria

The eternal debate. Belém is the original (lighter, crispier). Manteigaria is the modern challenger (creamier, sweeter). You must try both to decide.

The Rules

Always eat them warm. Always sprinkle them with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Never use a knife and fork.

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YOLKS Only
Mercado da Ribeira

Time Out Market. 🏛️

The world's first food hall curated by magazine editors. 26 restaurants, 8 bars, and the best chefs in the city under one massive iron dome.

Marlene Vieira

Try modern Portuguese cooking here. Her octopus salad is legendary. It is soft, briny, and drenched in good olive oil.

Vinho Verde

"Green Wine." It is young, slightly sparkling, and very cheap. It is the perfect pairing for seafood on a hot day.

The Strategy

It gets incredibly crowded. Go at 11:30 AM or 4:00 PM to secure a seat at the long communal wooden tables.

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Tinned Art

Vintage Wrapper

More Than Tuna

The Conservas. 🥫

In Portugal, canned fish is gourmet. Sardines, mackerel, and octopus are preserved in high-quality olive oil and wrapped in colorful, retro paper.

Conserveira de Lisboa:

A historic shop in Baixa that looks like a 1930s pharmacy. They wrap the tins in brown paper and tie them with string. It is the ultimate Lisbon souvenir.

Shellfish Temple

Cervejaria Ramiro. 🦀

The most famous seafood restaurant in Lisbon. It is loud, bright, and frantic. Anthony Bourdain loved it, and you will too.

Scarlet Prawns

"Carabineros." They are the size of your hand and bright red. The heads are full of savory juice—locals consider sucking the head the best part.

The Dessert

You don't order cake. You order a "Prego" (garlic steak sandwich). It sounds insane after a seafood feast, but it is the traditional way to end the meal.